Humble Chicken

A Cosmic Transformation of Japanese Cuisine in Soho

BRITISH CUSINE

5/6/20256 min read

A Celestial Evolution in London's Culinary Galaxy

In my interstellar quest to explore 50,000 restaurants across Earth's diverse culinary landscape, certain dining establishments possess the extraordinary ability to transform themselves entirely—cosmic entities that evolve through distinct phases like stars transitioning from one stellar state to another. Humble Chicken, nestled on Frith Street in Soho, represents perhaps the most remarkable metamorphosis in London's gastronomic universe—a restaurant that began as a casual yakitori joint in 2021 only to rapidly evolve into a two-Michelin-starred supernova of culinary innovation that now ranks among the UK's most exciting dining destinations.

I navigated through Soho's bustling thoroughfares on a vibrant Thursday evening, approaching the understated façade that gives little indication of the culinary gravitational force contained within. Having secured this coveted reservation several months in advance (an astronomical alignment requiring both precision and good fortune), I arrived with expectations calibrated to the restaurant's meteoric rise—expectations that would be thoroughly exceeded by the experience that followed.

The intimate dining space, with just 30 covers and seated primarily around a counter overlooking the open kitchen, preserves elements of its previous incarnation—most notably the flecked marble countertop inherited from its predecessor, Barrafina. This high-top dining arrangement creates an immediate sense of theater, placing diners in direct orbit around chef-owner Angelo Sato and his team as they execute each course with precision. What could feel cramped instead creates a sense of communal experience, as fellow diners become temporary companions on a shared gastronomic journey.

The Supernova Chef: Angelo Sato's Cosmic Journey

What gives Humble Chicken its extraordinary gravitational pull is the singular vision of Japanese-born chef Angelo Sato. His remarkable cosmic trajectory began at age 14 in Japanese kitchens before taking him through some of the world's most celebrated restaurants—RyuGin and NARISAWA in Tokyo, Eleven Madison Park in New York, and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay under Clare Smyth in London. At just 21, he became head chef at Restaurant Story, helping it secure its first Michelin star within five months of opening.

Sato's culinary philosophy represents a perfect fusion of his Japanese heritage and European training—a cosmic alignment of Eastern and Western techniques and flavors that transcends simple fusion cooking to create something genuinely original. When he opened Humble Chicken in 2021 at the age of 27, it initially operated as a casual yakitori spot utilizing every part of the chicken. However, in what would prove a transformative decision, Sato reinvented the restaurant in 2022, shifting to an exclusive focus on elaborate tasting menus.

This cosmic realignment proved extraordinarily successful—the restaurant earned its first Michelin star in 2024 and a second in 2025, a meteoric rise that speaks to both Sato's technical brilliance and his clear culinary vision. Yet Sato remains characteristically humble despite these accolades, describing the first star as "a relief" after years of dedication while immediately setting his sights on a third star, temporarily closing the restaurant for renovations just weeks after receiving his second Michelin accolade.

The Galactic Voyage of Taste

My cosmic journey began with a choice between a 16-course tasting menu priced at £185 or a slightly abbreviated 12-course omakase available at Saturday lunch for £115. I opted for the full experience, adding the recommended sake and wine pairing (approximately £95) to complete the astronomical alignment.

What followed was a carefully orchestrated procession of dishes that seamlessly blended Japanese tradition with European technique and theatrical presentation. Each course was personally explained by either Sato himself or one of his team, creating a narrative thread that connected the disparate elements into a coherent gastronomic story.

Particularly memorable was an opening course of mussel with kosho ponzu and avocado—the mollusk's natural brininess amplified by the citrus-chili punch of the ponzu while the avocado provided smooth textural counterpoint. This single bite established the meal's gravitational parameters—bold flavors, technical precision, and thoughtful balance would be the constants throughout our cosmic journey.

A dish of beef tartare with spicy miso and bone marrow demonstrated Sato's masterful understanding of umami, the Japanese "fifth taste" that provides depth and satisfaction. The hand-cut beef had been seasoned with exquisite precision, while the bone marrow added luxurious richness without overwhelming the meat's natural flavor. The spicy miso provided both heat and complexity, creating a perfect orbital alignment of flavor components.

Perhaps the most theatrical element of the meal was the shokupan (Japanese milk bread) service—a multi-part presentation that included Australian winter truffle, chicken liver parfait, and bright parsley accompaniments. The bread itself, impossibly light and fluffy, served as a canvas for these rich accompaniments, creating a course that was simultaneously comforting and technically impressive.

The Main Sequence: Primary Courses

The main courses continued this astronomical standard of excellence. A donabe (clay pot) rice topped with a crispy chicken leg offered a brilliant reimagining of the restaurant's namesake ingredient. The rice had absorbed complex savory flavors during cooking, while the crispy chicken provided textural contrast and concentrated poultry essence. This dish, with its elegant simplicity hiding complex preparation, exemplified Sato's cooking philosophy—technical virtuosity in service of flavor rather than mere showmanship.

Seafood courses displayed equal finesse. Poached sole in shiitake dashi demonstrated the kitchen's light touch with delicate fish, while an oyster enriched with burnt chicken fat and beurre blanc created an unexpected but harmonious fusion of Japanese and French culinary traditions. These dishes spoke to Sato's unique position at the intersection of Eastern and Western culinary traditions—neither fusion for its own sake nor rigid adherence to tradition, but rather a genuine personal expression of his multicultural background.

What distinguished the overall journey was the perfect pacing and portion sizing—each course arrived at just the right interval, while portions were calibrated to leave diners satisfied without becoming overwhelmed by the multi-course format. This demonstrated not only technical skill but also thoughtful empathy for the dining experience—a rare combination in high-end gastronomy.

Sweet Gravity: Desserts of Distinction

The dessert sequence maintained the meal's high standards with a trio of sweet creations that balanced technical sophistication with pure pleasure. Most memorable was a citrus cheesecake finished tableside with freshly grated frozen clementine—a theatrical touch that created not only visual impact but also a fascinating contrast between the room-temperature cheesecake and the icy, intensely aromatic citrus. The sound of the microplane against the frozen fruit added an unexpected ASMR element to the experience, engaging yet another sense in the multidimensional experience.

Throughout the sweet courses, as with the savory, there was a consistent lightness of touch and preference for natural flavor over excessive sweetness. This reflected Sato's Japanese sensibility while ensuring the multi-course meal concluded on a refreshing rather than cloying note.

The Service Constellation

What elevates Humble Chicken beyond mere technical excellence is its distinctive atmosphere and service style. Despite the restaurant's meteoric rise and accumulation of accolades, it maintains a disarming lack of pretension. The playlist bounces from ABBA to Drake to Madonna without self-consciousness, chopsticks rest on whimsical ceramic cockerel holders between courses, and the staff engage in genuine conversation rather than rehearsed recitations.

This juxtaposition of serious culinary intent with a distinctly unstuffy atmosphere creates a dining experience that feels simultaneously special and genuinely enjoyable. The counter seating arrangement facilitates interaction with both staff and fellow diners, creating a communal experience rare in high-end establishments. The sake and wine pairings are presented with knowledge but without pretension, focusing on how the selections enhance the food rather than technical details that might detract from pure enjoyment.

The Financial Dimension of Two-Star Dining

At £185 for the 16-course menu (plus approximately £95 for beverage pairings), Humble Chicken represents a significant investment. Yet within the context of two-Michelin-star dining in London, this pricing feels appropriate rather than excessive. The restaurant delivers extraordinary value through the quality of ingredients, technical execution, personal attention from the chef-owner, and overall uniqueness of the experience.

What makes Humble Chicken particularly compelling is that beneath its stellar credentials and technical sophistication beats the heart of a genuinely fun restaurant—one that understands dining should be as pleasurable as it is impressive. This is fine dining reimagined for a new generation—technical excellence and luxury ingredients deployed in service of pure enjoyment rather than reverential solemnity.

The Cosmic Verdict

Humble Chicken achieves a perfect 5/5 on my personal Cosmic Flavor Scale. What earns this stellar rating isn't merely technical brilliance or luxury ingredients—though both are abundant—but rather the restaurant's perfect calibration between serious culinary intent and genuine enjoyment. Sato has created something truly unique: a two-Michelin-star restaurant that delivers extraordinary food while refusing to take itself too seriously.

In a dining universe often divided between fun casual restaurants and serious fine dining establishments, Humble Chicken charts a distinctive new course—technically flawless yet approachable, conceptually sophisticated yet fundamentally enjoyable. It represents the future of fine dining—one where theatrical presentation and technical excellence enhance rather than inhibit pure pleasure.

For the cosmic gastronaut navigating London's culinary constellation in my quest to explore 50,000 restaurants worldwide, Humble Chicken offers a singularity of excellence—a dining experience that defies easy categorization while delivering consistent brilliance. It stands as compelling evidence that the most exciting restaurants are often those that follow a personal vision rather than an established template.

Location

Cosmic Flavor Scale Rating: 5/5

Address

54 Frith Street, Soho, London W1D 4SJ

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