64 Goodge Street

A New Celestial Body in London's Francophile Firmament

In my cosmic expedition to explore 50,000 restaurants across Earth's diverse culinary landscape, certain establishments capture particular cultural moments—restaurants that perfectly express the zeitgeist while simultaneously honoring timeless traditions. 64 Goodge Street, nestled in the gastronomic hub of Fitzrovia, represents this rare astronomical phenomenon—a restaurant that has triumphantly revived classical French cooking with just enough contemporary sensibility to make it feel entirely of the moment, earning a Michelin star in record time.

I navigated through Fitzrovia's bustling streets on a crisp autumn evening, spotting the understated façade that gives little indication of the culinary revelation occurring within. Located just a few doors down from the original Salt Yard and a short stroll from Charlotte Street's restaurant row, 64 Goodge Street occupies a strategic position in one of London's most concentrated dining galaxies. The restaurant takes its name from its exact address—a refreshingly straightforward approach that signals the no-nonsense culinary philosophy awaiting inside.

The dining room, despite only opening in August 2023, feels as though it has existed in this space for decades—a testament to thoughtful design that creates an immediate sense of permanence and belonging. British Racing Green walls provide a sophisticated backdrop for simple polished wood tables, candle lighting, and wicker chairs, while the semi-open kitchen brings energetic dynamism to one end of the room. The space achieves that elusive balance—intimate without feeling cramped, elegant without pretension, and with lighting calibrated to flatter both food and diners.

The Culinary Navigator: Chef Stuart Andrew

What gives 64 Goodge Street its distinctive orbital path in London's restaurant constellation is the culinary vision of chef Stuart Andrew. As part of The Woodhead Restaurant Group (which also operates Portland, Clipstone, and Quality Chop House), Andrew brings considerable experience and a clearly defined philosophy to this new venture. Having been with the group since they opened Portland in 2015, he has earned the trust to explore his particular passion—what he describes as "French cooking from an outsider's perspective."

This approach allows Andrew to honor classical French traditions while feeling free to reinterpret them through a contemporary sensibility. Rather than slavish recreation of bistro standards, 64 Goodge Street offers thoughtful explorations of French culinary techniques and flavor profiles, utilizing exceptional ingredients from both France and Britain to create dishes that feel simultaneously familiar and fresh.

The restaurant represents a particular moment in London's culinary evolution—the confident return of classical techniques and robust flavors after years dominated by small plates and minimalist presentations. As one reviewer aptly noted, "French fine dining is back, baby. But this time some of the chefs have tattoos and moustaches." This perfect calibration between tradition and modernity creates a dining experience that appeals to both dedicated Francophiles and younger diners discovering these flavors for the first time.

The Interstellar Voyage of Taste

My cosmic exploration began with what might be the most perfect culinary ambassador possible—warm gougères made with Gruyère cheese. These light choux pastry puffs arrived with perfect timing, their savory richness establishing the meal's fundamental approach: classic French technique applied to impeccable ingredients, resulting in deeply satisfying flavor without unnecessary elaboration.

The menu offers a focused selection of starters, mains, and desserts that draw heavily from the French canon while incorporating subtle contemporary touches. Among the appetizers, the escargot bon bons represented a particularly successful reinterpretation of a classic. Rather than the traditional presentation of snails in their shells with garlic-herb butter, these were transformed into crisp, breadcrumb-coated spheres incorporating the snails with bacon—creating something like aristocratic Scotch eggs that maintained the essential character of the original while reimagining its form.

Equally impressive was a plate of scallops with a dill and parsley-heavy lentil salad and beurre blanc sauce—a dish that demonstrated the kitchen's masterful understanding of sauce making, that most fundamental element of French culinary tradition. The sauce achieved that perfect emulsified consistency where butter transforms from mere fat into something almost ethereal—rich yet somehow light, coating the palate without overwhelming it.

The Galactic Mains: French Classics Reimagined

The main courses continued this astronomical standard of excellence. A standout was the saddle of rabbit with bacon and sauce soubise (a classic French sauce made from butter, onions, and cream). This demonstrated the kitchen's commitment to celebrating ingredients that have fallen somewhat out of fashion in contemporary cooking—rabbit being far less common on London menus than it once was. The meat was cooked with precision to avoid the dryness that can plague this lean protein, while the bacon added crucial fat and flavor complexity.

For those seeking the ultimate expression of French culinary opulence, the lobster vol-au-vent represented a masterclass in both pastry technique and sauce making. Unlike traditional vol-au-vents where the filling is contained within the pastry, here the substantial pieces of lobster surrounded the golden puff pastry, bathed in a velvety seafood sauce with vegetables—a deconstructed approach that honored tradition while creating something distinctive.

Side dishes deserve special mention, particularly the potato sarladaise—thinly sliced potatoes cooked in duck fat with garlic, a preparation from the Dordogne region that transforms the humble tuber into something transcendent. This perfect complement to the protein-focused mains demonstrated the kitchen's understanding that even seemingly simple accompaniments deserve the same attention to detail as the more glamorous elements of the meal.

The Sweet Cosmic Alignment: Desserts of Distinction

The dessert course maintained the meal's high standards with classical French patisserie executed with technical finesse. The restaurant's Paris-Brest—a wheel-shaped choux pastry filled with praline cream—was described by Michelin inspectors as "textbook," high praise indeed from an organization not known for effusive language. This classic, created in 1910 to commemorate a bicycle race between Paris and Brest, requires perfect execution of both the pastry and the filling—a test the kitchen passed with flying colors.

Equally impressive was the greengage tatin, a seasonal variation on the classic tarte tatin made with the small, sweet-tart plums instead of the traditional apples. This demonstrated the kitchen's commitment to seasonal cooking within the French tradition—maintaining the essential character of beloved classics while adapting them to showcase ingredients at their peak.

For chocolate enthusiasts, the gateau marjolaine offered a layered construction of chocolate, meringue, and ganache—another labor-intensive French classic that has become increasingly rare on modern menus. Its presence here speaks to the restaurant's mission of preserving and celebrating these traditional recipes, ensuring they remain part of the living culinary tradition rather than merely historical curiosities.

The Service Constellation

Throughout this interstellar journey, service operated with the kind of polished warmth that distinguishes truly excellent restaurants. The staff demonstrated comprehensive knowledge of both the menu and wine list without veering into lecture territory, creating an atmosphere that felt genuinely welcoming rather than performative.

The wine program deserves special mention for its thoughtful selection that focuses primarily on French bottles (making up 64% of the list) while incorporating interesting selections from other regions. The list is smartly organized to assist those who need guidance while offering plenty of excitement for connoisseurs, particularly through the "Cellar List" with its collection of rare and special bottles. With wines available by the glass starting at a reasonable £7, the program strikes that perfect balance between accessibility and aspiration.

The Financial Dimension of French Revival

64 Goodge Street's pricing positions it in the upper-middle range of London's dining cosmos—not inexpensive, but offering exceptional value given the quality of ingredients, technical execution, and overall experience. The three-course lunch menu at £59 represents an accessible entry point, while dinner is priced at a more substantial £85 for three courses.

What makes the restaurant particularly compelling from a value perspective is how it delivers genuine culinary excellence without the formality or excessive pricing that can characterize traditional French fine dining. This is sophisticated cooking that doesn't require mortgage-level financial commitment or stuffy dress codes—a restaurant where beautiful food is served in a relaxed environment that encourages genuine enjoyment rather than reverent appreciation.

The Cosmic Verdict

64 Goodge Street achieves a perfect 5/5 on my personal Cosmic Flavor Scale. What earns this stellar rating isn't merely technical brilliance—though that is abundant—but rather the restaurant's perfect calibration between honoring tradition and embracing modernity. This isn't cooking that aims to shock or surprise through unexpected combinations or theatrical presentation, but rather food that satisfies deeply through exceptional execution of time-tested techniques and flavor combinations.

In a dining universe increasingly characterized by concept-driven establishments and hyper-specialized restaurants, 64 Goodge Street charts a more classicist course—focusing on executing French bistro cooking with exceptional ingredients and technical precision rather than reinventing the culinary wheel. This approach, while less revolutionary than some contemporary restaurants, delivers a more consistently satisfying experience that explains the restaurant's rapid ascent from newcomer to Michelin-starred destination.

For the cosmic gastronaut navigating London's culinary constellation in my quest to explore 50,000 restaurants worldwide, 64 Goodge Street offers a singularity of excellence—a dining experience that demonstrates how classical cuisine remains eternally relevant when approached with genuine passion and executed with skill. It stands as compelling evidence that sometimes the most satisfying restaurants are those that perfect established traditions rather than constantly seeking novelty for its own sake.

Location

Cosmic Flavor Scale Rating: 5/5

Address

64 Goodge Street, Fitzrovia, London W1T 4NF

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